North Africa to Portugal

December 30, 1953 – later

We finally landed in Algiers about three hours late because of terrific headwinds and bad weather.  It has rained all afternoon except for about an hour.

Algiers, Algeria

There really isn’t much to see here.  At least we didn’t see too much.  I really think this is a gas stop, and we spent the night here because two nights flying would be right much.

We are staying at the St. George Hotel (still there).  It is old and ornate but nice – private bath.  This is where Ike used to meet with Wilson (Eng.) and plan for the Mediterranean theater.

We did go on a sightseeing tour.  We went to the Botanical Gardens first.  On the way we saw one of the Governor’s Palaces where Gen. Clark used to stay.  In 1942 a French Admiral was assassinated at the front gate.  We also passed a Woolworth’s store.

         The Botanical Gardens are 85 acres and were built 2 years after the French occupation.  They looked like they might be right pretty in the right kind of weather.  It rained on us there.  Everyone was griping – mainly because we hadn’t been to bed.  But I also think that it is a good thing that this tour is just about over because I think that all are about run down.  We have really been pushing it.

 

Botanical Gardens in Algiers

          Then we went to the Casbah.  On the way we passed the huts that the nomads lived in.  First we came to the flea market – a bunch of dirty people selling things.  Then we went into an Arabian house.  The roof is flat and open.  This is reserved for the women so they can take their veils off.  There are no windows, only peep holes, so they can look out, but no one can look in.

Slums of Algiers

Casbah in Algiers

Then we went into St. Phillip’s Cathedral which used to be a mosque.

Then we went down into the Casbah.  That is a dirty, filthy section where people live.  They also sell some things in the streets but they don’t beg you to buy.  It is a series of very narrow streets that are steps.  The children run along and beg for money, hit you, spit on you, or trip you.  They are all filthy.  This place is closed at night because it is so dangerous.  We went into a graveyard somewhere in there.  [I can't even fathom why they would have gone into a graveyard, especially in a place like this.  I'm certain Mother bitched about that.]

Native Women in the Casbah

On the way back we stopped at a couple of stores.

 

Leaving Algiers.  I'm pretty sure this was her favorite part of this stop.

December 31, 1953

Well, it’s New Year’s Eve and here we are in Lisbon drinking a bottle of Port wine – the National Wine of Portugal.  [Kind of like sherry is the national wine of Spain!]

We got in here about two this afternoon after flying over the blue Mediterranean.  It is beautiful and the weather is wonderful.  It is just like spring again and everything is green.

 

Coming into Lisbon

We are staying at the Florida Hotel (still there).

This afternoon some of us went shopping but I think we must have gotten on the wrong street because all we saw was junky stores.  We did stop somewhere for coffee.  Then we took the streetcar home.  That was an experience.

You know my feet nearly froze on the plane per usual.

January 2, 1953

Lisbon was grand – it is a beautiful city and the sun was out the whole time, but it was windy so it was a little chilly.  Yesterday we went on an all day sightseeing trip.

        Portugal gained her independence from Spain in 1140.  We rode by Black Horse Square (actually known as Commerce Square or the Palace Square) on the River Tagus.  This is where every one checks in to Lisbon.  Then we went down to the fish docks which were really bustling.  Everyone carries their things on their heads, especially the fish wives.  Then we passed the President’s Palace and stopped at the Cathedral of St. Geronimo (Jeronimos Monastery) which was built in 1500 over the site of a little chapel where Vasco de Gama prayed before he sailed to India.  This church commemorates all explorations.  All of the decorations are of seafaring things.  It is a beautiful church.  In fact I do believe it is the prettiest one I have been in over here.

 

Fish Wharves in Lisbon

Then we went to a tower that is where Vasco de Gama’s armada sailed from and where he used to go.  It is very pretty.

 

Tower where Vasco de Gama sailed from

Then we drove through an area which he called social housing – housing project.  There is an awful lot of building going on in Lisbon.  All of the new buildings are modern and are all different colors.  It certainly is colorful.  As our guide said, every one wants to keep the old part of Lisbon, but they want to live in the new part.  As I have said, we were very impressed with Lisbon.  The people here looked and acted like humans and treated us like humans.

 

Lisbon

Then we went to the National Stadium which was built in 1940.  It is beautiful and the turf was out of this world.

We drove up the coast to Estoril, which is the Portuguese Riviera.  It was a beautiful drive.  We got out here for a few minutes and went down on the beach.

Estoril, Portugal

         Then we drove on to Cascais, which is older than Estoril.  This is where all of the ex-kings and titled people live.  From there we went on to Sintra.  On the way we passed Cape Roca, which is the nearest tip to America in Europe.  We ate lunch in Sintra at the Hotel Nunes.  You know they feed you tremendous meals here – about 5 courses – from soup to nuts literally.  I have never seen such meals.

Cascais

          From there we went up to Pina Castle. It was built in 1500 by Emmanuel I for a monastery. He also built St. Geronimo’s. In 1840 it was turned into the king’s summer residence, but it hasn’t been used as such for several years. It certainly was ornate.

Castle in Sintra, Portugal

      

         When we got back we drove around Lisbon.  Coming into Lisbon we had a beautiful view of the whole city.  We passed a tremendous bridge that was built in 1700.  Then we went to Park Edward VII to the rock garden which was very pretty.

St. Geronimo’s Cathedral in Lisbon

We also passed the place where they held the NATO Conference.

Last night several of us went to the movie – “Lili” (with Leslie Caron, Mel Ferrer, Jean-Pierre Aumont and Zsa Zsa Gabor).  We went at 9:30 and didn’t get out until 12:30.  At first they had three cartoons.  In between each one there was a short.  Then there was some advertising.  Then an intermission; then the first part of the movie; then another intermission; and then the last half.  The theater was fabulous – bar and everything.  [Party at the movie theater!]  It was a very good movie too.